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Entries categorized as ‘middle eastern’

Four sorbets: lavender rose, watermelon, coconut lime, and orange blossom

August 21, 2008 · 6 Comments

In the past two years I have been finding more and more ice cream recipes, as everyone in America seems to have discovered that what you get at the supermarket is nowhere near what you can make at home. Trouble was, I was NOT in America, and I did not have an ice cream maker, nor could I even dream of affording one. So I spent my time filing away frozen dessert ideas, and now that I’m ensconced in my parents’ kitchen until next Saturday, I pulled out the ice cream maker to play with the recent Tuesdays With Dorie Blueberry Sour Cream Ice Cream. (I used blackberries, brown sugar, and lime. Two thumbs up.)

But, you know, that ice cream maker is heavy. So why not just leave it out on the counter for a bit longer, and get my - er, my parents’ - money’s worth out of it? Result: It’s sorbet madness over here. I’ve got a friend coming to visit this weekend, and I hope she’s bringing a spoon.

I’ve learned that a couple of tablespoons of booze keeps it scoopable, since the alcohol won’t freeze solid, and I’ve basically been following a 2 cups liquid : 1 cup sugar ratio, always with a dash of something citrusy. If you’ve got a well-stocked pantry, you can make some pretty outrageous sorbets, and if you’ve got a decently-stocked pantry, you can still make some awfully neat ones.

When I was living at home for the three months between Peace Corps assignments, a couple of years ago, I made a giant order to a Middle Eastern online grocery, and last week, I found some remnants of that order (in the liquor cabinet, heaven knows why): rose syrup and orange blossom water. Orange blossom water, also called orange flower water, costs an arm and a leg in tiny little blue bottles at your Finer Grocery Shoppes, but if you buy it online, or if there’s a Middle Eastern grocery in your town, you can get a bigger size at a better price.

Rose syrup is available online, too, or you can buy some rosewater - more widely available and less expensive than orange blossom water. It won’t turn the sorbet pink like my fluorescent-dyed syrup did, but you can also use it with sparkling water to make a nice rose soda. (This is my other favorite thing to do this summer - I’ve made fig soda, too, with some of the syrup that I also used in the roasted peppers.) Of course, you could make your own rose syrup, with rosewater and sugar.

If you really pushed me to pick a favorite from these, I’d go with the coconut. It’s vegan paradise - creamy without the soy aftertaste that so often plagues dairy-free desserts. It’s not too sweet, and it’s a classic combination of ingredients in perfect summer form. It’s hard to call this one ahead of the others, though - the feeling of eating pure frozen flower essences from the lavender/rose and orange blossom sorbets, and the simple bliss of the watermelon… You really should just make them all.

But if you make the lavender/rose one, take a nice picture for me - our batch got eaten before I could whip out the camera.

Lavender Rose Sorbet
I served this with some rosewater-soaked almonds on top.

2 cups water
1 cup sugar
1 tablespoon dried food-grade lavender flowers
juice of 1 lime
1 tablespoon rose syrup or rosewater
2 tablespoons vodka

In a saucepan over high heat, bring water, sugar, and lavender to a boil. Let simmer 5 minutes, then turn off the heat and leave to steep for another 10. Strain and mix with lime juice, rose syrup, and vodka, then freeze according to your ice cream maker’s manufacturer’s directions.

Watermelon Sorbet
Not that watermelon ever needed to be improved. I love watermelon and rose together, so if you want to put in a splash of rosewater, no one’s going to stop you.

flesh from around 3 pounds of watermelon, black seeds removed
1/4 cup water
1 cup sugar
juice of 1 lemon
2 tablespoons vodka

Mash up the watermelon a bit and put it in a saucepan over high heat with water and sugar , and bring it to a boil, stirring until sugar is dissolved. Put this mixture in a blender with lemon juice and vodka, and buzz until smooth. Freeze according to your ice cream maker’s manufacturer’s directions.

Coconut Lime Sorbet

This one needs much less sugar due to the natural sweetness of the coconut. I used palm sugar, which has a subtle grassy flavor, and is also a southeast Asian staple. If you don’t have it, though, regular cane sugar will do fine. Brown sugar might be nice, as well as a dash of rum instead of vodka. You could also split a vanilla bean and put it in to simmer with the coconut milk; I didn’t have one around, so I just used vanilla extract.

11 oz coconut milk (I used two 5.5-oz cans) or coconut cream
1/2 cup water
juice and zest of 2 limes
1/2 cup palm sugar
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
2 tablespoons vodka

In a saucepan over high heat, bring coconut milk, water, lime juice, and sugar to a boil. Simmer, stirring, until sugar dissolves. Remove from heat and add vanilla and vodka; freeze according to your ice cream maker’s manufacturer’s directions, adding the zest towards the end of freezing time.

Orange Blossom Sorbet

Also needs less sugar. Jasmine green tea could be fun.

1 cup fresh orange juice
1 cup water
2 bags plain green tea
3/4 cup sugar
1 tablespoon orange blossom water
2 tablespoons vodka
zest of 1 orange

In a saucepan over high heat, bring orange juice, water, green tea, and sugar to a boil. Simmer, stirring until sugar dissolves, then remove from heat and let steep 5 minutes. Combine with orange blossom water and vodka and freeze according to ice cream maker’s manufacturer’s directions, adding orange zest towards the end of freezing time.

Categories: desserts · fruity · middle eastern · pantry-dependent · summer · under 5 ingredients · vegan

falafel

February 17, 2008 · 4 Comments

 

In the U.S., it’s hot dogs.  In India, it’s samosas.  In Europe, it’s doners.

 Wait, what?  Europe, doners?  Doners are middle-eastern!  Europe has waffles, fish-and-chips, gelato, why should doners have leapt their way up to be the ubiquitous continental street food?

Surely there are several geopolitical threads coming together to form one very long-winded answer, but I just say: because they taste good.  Spiced meat on a spit with tangy, garlicky yogurt sauce, bright cucumbers or salty pickles, sunny tomatoes, sometimes a few french fries too, all tucked into a soft warm pita, and the best part is, you don’t need a fork. I ask you, is anything closer to heaven?

Well, yeah.  Use falafel instead!  Chickpeas and bulgur buzzed up, loaded with garlic and spices, and pan-fried to golden bliss.  This is one of those things that my parents weren’t much for, so I grew up hearing that they were greasy little wheat bombs. When they were served to me for the first time in high school, I was surprised that they weren’t awful, but was not yet won over.   In college, though, I got a good one, and then, only then, did I understand.  They’ve got to be delicate on the inside, crisp on the outside.  Can’t just dump in a bunch of grains and deep-fry it: you gotta have something green in there, gotta have good spices.  (And don’t forget the garlic.)  Only then can you achieve falafel happiness.

 

For years I’ve been using Crescent Dragonwagon’s recipe for Neo-Traditional Falafel from her book Passionate Vegetarian, a 1000+ page cookbook that I plan on hauling around with me until it falls apart.  (I did draw the line at lugging it across the ocean, however, and have been scraping by on the few recipes from it that I copied before I left.  This is not to say that I did not bring her Dairy Hollow Soup and Bread along for the ride.  Because I did.)  I made a couple of amendments.  I used spinach instead of the parsley she calls for, because that’s what I had; I had run out of the 1/2 cup breadcrumbs she uses and so threw in half that amount of wheat germ; and although she bakes hers, I cannot betray having grown up in the South: why bake when you can fry?

I also didn’t have any pita bread around, so I prettied them up instead by putting them on a little bed of cabbage and arranging the appropriate accessories.  My new favorite thing is a yogurt sauce from my friend Kate, who keeps trying to proclaim herself a disaster in the kitchen but who so far has not proven herself to be one.  You can make it even better by using homemade mayonnaise, which is the easiest thing ever.  (But that’s another entry.)  Here I also topped it off with a dollop of lutenitsa, a Balkan red bell pepper ketchup, but you could use some chopped up roasted red peppers instead.  This summer I’d really like to make some of my own lutenitsa, and rest assured I’ll be posting the recipe.

 

Falafel
makes about 12

1/4 cup bulgur
1/2 cup boiling water
2 cups presoaked chickpeas
3 cloves garlic, roughly chopped
1 large egg
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon turmeric
1/4 teaspoon ground coriander
pinch of chili flakes
1/2 cup roughly chopped fresh spinach
1/4 cup wheat germ
3-4 tablespoons sunflower or olive oil, plus more for frying

to serve
Kate’s super secret sauce (recipe follows)
finely sliced cabbage
pickles
lutenitsa or roasted red pepper

Put bulgur in a bowl, add boiling water, cover, and let sit for about 20 minutes, at which time the bulgur should be soft. Drain any excess water.

In the food processor combine chickpeas, garlic, egg, salt, cumin, black pepper, turmeric, coriander, chili flakes, spinach, and wheat germ. Buzz it all together while adding oil through the tube. Pause as necessary to scrape down sides, and stop when you’ve got everything well pureed together. Add this mixture to the bulgur and mix well. You can refrigerate this if you like - and it’s not a bad idea, if you want to give the flavors time to meld, or if you want to make this ahead of time to fry up later - or you can cook ‘em now: heat 2-3 tablespoons oil in a pan over medium-high heat. Form mixture into 1/4-cup patties. (I used a 1/4 cup measure as a mold.) Fry on both sides until golden brown, about 3 minutes each side. Serve with sides.

Kate’s Super Secret Sauce
makes about 3/4 cup

2/3 cup plain yogurt
2 tablespoons mayonnaise
1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
1 teaspoon paprika
pinch chili flakes
1/2 teaspoon dried savory
salt and grond black pepper to taste

Combine all ingredients in a bowl and serve. Good with doners, falafels, and as a dip for hunks of bread.

Leftovers Serve ‘em with just a drizzle of pomegranate molasses and more pickles.  I know, it sounds like a pregnancy craving from Berkeley, but you’ll thank me soon enough.

Categories: mains · middle eastern · pantry-dependent